Yamaha Raptor Yamaha

Yamaha Yfm 700 R Raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 Strengthened

Yamaha Yfm 700 R Raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 Strengthened

Yamaha Yfm 700 R Raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 Strengthened    Yamaha Yfm 700 R Raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 Strengthened
Other channel qualities available: standard, hyper strengthens oring, super strengthened contact us! Crown - open chain - gable - fastener/link.

Gable: 14 , crown 38 , chain: not: 520 , number of links: 98. Other reports available on misterbike! Contact us at before purchase! Contact us for other reports choice of other accessories and pieces /.

Chain brand: tsubaki /rk /kitchain Japan /izumi/ sarkani according to stock. 12452cz14 - 102.52038011 - 100.52007.98. This product is compatible with the following models. Yfm 700 r raptor 1s3 , 2006 - 2011. A few colseils to replace your chain kit. Choosing the type of chain. Strengthened standard: (oro, eb) 250 cm3 super reinforced maxi: (rh) 500 cm3 hyper reinforced maxi: (rs, rs3, rx) 500 cm3 and more. Super oring: standard toric joints (orn) normal / intensive road.

Hyper oring: Advanced toric joints (ors) special sports use oring: competition toric joints (orh) use racing. Location of the chain kit. A few things to know. How to see if it's time to change? The tension markers: with lusure, the chain sallonge and relaxes.

To tighten it, the wheel is pulled backwards with the tendors located against the nuts of the wheel axis. Close to these tendors are the voltage markers. They are used to adjust the left and right tendors symmetrically and to see when approaching the limit race. If by tightening your chain, you get to the end of these markers, it is time to change it. And so in general, to change your chain kit. The teeth of the gable and crown: you can also observe the teeth of the gable and crown. If they are rounded, even puffed, or downright twisted... It's downright time for a change. You can also test your chain by grabbing it between two fingers at the crown, and pulling backwards. If you can discover half a tooth of the crown, or more, it is that you either have to tighten, or if you have just done so, that your chain is dead. To drop a chain kit and change it, things vary a lot from one bike to another, but here are some answers to the questions we commonly ask ourselves.

Closed channel or open channel? 1st case the chain passes around the swinging arm... And you can take out your chain, so reinstall one, without having to open it, or have to disassemble anything.

So you can buy a closed chain, set in a factory. 2nd possibility, the chain passes in the reinforcement of the swinging arm: here the question does not arise, (the reinforcement is welded), you have to open the chain to get it out, and install an open chain that you will close yourself. Chain or grinder drift for dismantling, chain bank for winding... 3rd possibility, it passes behind the axis, in the swinging arm: some will make the choice to disassemble the arm, so as not to have to open the old chain, and especially in order to install a closed chain in the factory ...

That said, it's still a lot of work, and some will prefer to open the old chain and set the new one. Replacing the chain kit can be an opportunity to fine-tune the motor skills by playing on the multiplier. In racing, for example, some will even modify their gears according to each circuit, the purchase of a gable with a gap tooth more or less will allow to evolve the motor skills according to the needs: a smaller gable, or a larger crown to increase accelerations, but by limiting the peak speed.

A larger gable, or a smaller crown to pull longer and push the top speed, but with less acceleration. Open or crimp a motorcycle chain. Drift (drift) a motorcycle chain without worry: to derive no problem: either you have a chain drift, or you grind the ends of the two axes on a maillion of the chain, then with a screwdriver you blow the plate of the link. Then you remove this one as you would for a quick fastener. River (riveter) a motorcycle chain: to close the chain you have two solutions: either it comes with a fast fast fastener. Which is rather simple and... (but often reserved for small and medium-sized cylinders). Either way, you have to set the last link yourself. You will achieve this with a cable chain, which usually costs half as much as a workshop installation... And you will be useful for several installations, or to shorten your chain. Absolutely avoid the hammer to drift and worse for river: first the result will not be guaranteed, and a chain that opens at full speed ...

It's more than dangerous. Then because you can distort the chain and cause unhealthy wear. Before you start measure the actual wear of your chain kit. Choosing the right type of chain: the rule of thumb is to never take a lower quality than the one in place. Then you can go up in range depending on your type of use.

Depending on the type of driving. The sportier your driving and the more powerful your machine, the more the bumps on the chain will be. And so, the higher the quality you'll have to go. A road tourism course obviously does not require the same reliability as a use mx, trial or gp (or quad, which require a lot of secondary transmission).

Depending on the type of course: similarly, the harshness of the environment will play out. Are more aggressive than road circuits.

In this type of case, we prefer the oring chains, with toric joints that will be better protected from water, mud, sand all those little things that mechanics love. After reassembling re-regulate the voltage of the chain with the weight of the pilot, or even a little more, if you often take an adult passenger. To reassemble the crown, put 2 drops of powerful grease on the threading of the bolts. It is a part of the bike heavily subjected to vibrations and shocks. Think that on some models, the change in gear can cause a change in the measurement of speed.

Think about making the correction. Important: always adjust the tension with the rider sitting on the bike the tension of the chain changes with the travel of the suspension. It is therefore essential to make these bike-loaded settings, otherwise you will end up with a much more tense chain than expected. It is therefore necessary to be two to perform the operation. Tighten the chain: After just unlocking the rear wheel axis nut, and the counter nut of each tendor, gradually screw the chain side tendor (to get to the right voltage), then screw the other in the same way.

The tendors pull the wheel axis backwards, and thus stretch the chain. Use the markers on each tendor to adjust them the same way. Check if the wheel is centered: You can check the wheel line by graduations on the swinging arm, or by measuring the distance between the ends of the swinging arm axis and the ends of the rear wheel axis.

Which must of course be equal distance on each side. Tighten the wheel: Before blocking nuts and against nuts, make sure the wheel axis is in good contact against the tendors. Also make sure the screws of the tendors are stuck in position, not loose. Re-check the setting after final tightening.

Sometimes the settings move during tightening. To avoid doing all this for nothing, once everything is blocked, check again the voltage of the chain and the alignment of the wheel. Should a chain kit be prowled? In general, it is assumed that any rolling part must be prowled. On the chain kit, it may be less visible than on segments (break/tightening), tires (fall) or pads (icing), but this nevertheless promotes a good set-up of the three elements, (chain, gable, crown), and even longer their lifespan. Italian brand more than 250 times world champion, partners of the greatest international drivers. Regina equips many machines in 1st mount.

Chains made in Japan, reliability and robustness. Remarkable solidity at an affordable price. Chains made in Japan, for standart chains without toric joints. More thousands of pieces with.

Delays can vary from 2 to 15 business days, contact us before the purchase. New parts in their packaging. Anti-theft, batteries, candles, chain kits, gables, crowns, chains, dembrayage discs, air filters, oil filters, petrol filters, oils, motor joints, spi joints, brake levers and dembraying grips, brake proteges, brake jaws, fixed and floating brake discs, brake pads, motorcycles, cross tires and enduro, scooter tires, quad tires, lamps and projectors, wheel bearings and steering bearings, spraychain, flashers, rearviewrs, fork tubes, cables, tank caps, handlebars, bridge, visseries, handlebars, valves and valve caps, contactors, datelier becies, footrests, straps, scaffolding, tooling, top case and windshields. Helmets, rain clothing, clothing and anti-cold accessories, tire heating blanket, etc. Monday to Friday 9am-12pm-2pm-7pm. 9am-8pm /Monday-Saturday. The item \"kit chain yamaha yfm 700 r raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 reinforced\" has been on sale since Wednesday, April 3, 2013.

It is in the category \"auto, motorcycle - parts, accessories-motorcycles -other spare parts\". The seller is \"destocnet\" and is located in Saint-dizier. This item can be shipped to the following country: European Union.

  1. mark: - unmarked/generic -
  2. manufacturer's part number: not applicable

Yamaha Yfm 700 R Raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 Strengthened    Yamaha Yfm 700 R Raptor 1s3 06-11 2006 2011 1438 520 Strengthened